Methods of mordanting for natural dyeing

The three methods used for mordanting are: -

- Pre-mordanting: - The substrate is treated with the mordant and then dyed.
- Meta - mordanting: - The mordant is added in the dye bath itself.
- Post-mordanting: - The dyed material is treated with a mordant.
The methods have different effects on the shade obtained after dyeing and also on the fastness properties. It also depends upon the dye and the substrate. It is therefore necessary to choose a proper method to get the required shade and fastness by optimisation of parameters.

Cotton:
Since metallic mordants are soluble in water and are loosely held by the cotton fibres, these mordants have to be precipitated on the fabric by converting them into insoluble form, or by first treating the fibres with oil or tannic acid and then impregnating treated fabric with solution of mordant, whereby the metallic mordants are held on to cotton via oil or tannic acid.

Wool:
Unlike cotton, wool is highly receptive towards mordants. Due to its amphoteric nature wool can absorb acids and bases equally effectively. When wool is treated with a metallic salt it hydrolyses the salt into an acidic and basic component. The basic component is absorbed at –COOH group and the acidic component is removed during washing.
Wool also has a tendency to absorb fine precipitates from solutions. These precipitates are superficially sorbs onto surface of fibres and the dye attached to these gives poor rubbing fastness.

Silk:

Like wool, silk is also amphoteric and can absorb both acids as well as bases. However, wool has thiol groups (-SH) from the cystine amino acid, which act as reducing agent and can reduce hexavalent chromium of potassium dichromate to trivalent form. The trivalent chromium forms the complex with the fibre and dye. Therefore potassium dichromate cannot be used as mordant effectively.